Pumps Installation Guides

The check valve and discharge line are where most sump and ejector pump problems actually happen. The pump itself is usually fine -- it's the check valve that fails or the discharge line that freezes, kinks, or terminates too close to the foundation. Getting these two components right is the difference between a pump system that works for 10 years and one that fails the first time you really need it.

Tired of running the faucet for two minutes waiting for hot water? A recirculation pump keeps hot water circulating through your pipes so it's ready the instant you turn the handle. There are two types: dedicated return line systems (more efficient but require a separate pipe run) and comfort valve systems (use the cold water line as a return -- much easier to retrofit). For most existing homes, the comfort valve system is the way to go.

If you've got a basement bathroom, laundry room, or any fixture below the main sewer line, you need an ejector pump to push waste uphill to the sewer. This isn't the same as a sump pump -- ejector pumps handle solid waste and need a sealed, vented basin. It's a more involved install, and honestly, it's one of the plumbing jobs where most homeowners are better off hiring a pro. But if you've got the skills and the stomach for it, here's how it works.

A sump pump is the last line of defense between your basement and a flooded mess. If you're replacing an existing pump, the job is straightforward -- pull the old one, drop in the new one, reconnect the discharge. If you're installing one for the first time, you've got more work: cutting into the basement floor, setting the basin, and routing the discharge line. Either way, getting this right is worth every minute -- a failed sump pump during a heavy rain is one of the most expensive plumbing disasters we see.